17 agosto 2009

DO NOT #1


Buy a train ticket without reserving seats; standing room only is no fun.

Stazione Rifredi, Firenze - It's December 23rd, the hustle and bustle of Italians flocking and swarming to be with family is a frenzy at any train station, including Rifredi. After realizing that the date on our connecting train in Milan to Barcelona was the 22nd (this is for another don't - forget to confirm travel dates) and figuring out what to do once we arrive in Milan, we waited on the familiar platform of Rifredi station for the train to Milano.

Just because a train says it will arrive at a certain time, does not mean it actually will. Italian trains run on Italian time and this was no different. By the time the sun had started to set our train rolled in an hour and 45 minutes late absolutely PACKED with passengers.

Remember there is no limit as to how many tickets to sell for a train. If there are no seats and you have purchased a ticket with no seat reservation you have to be happy standing in the corridor. This normally is not a problem, but during the holiday rush it turns into the worse 9 hour train ride of your life.

No seats. Barely any standing room and then don't forget to add at least one (sometimes two) large suitcases for each passenger. The corridor was a mess of luggage and passengers thrown together as though some teenager's messy room had just blown up on the train. Somehow, among the mangled luggage straps, stray children, and scruffy backpackers, Melisa and I found a small spot along the corridor. One pull out seat and two suitcases later, we nestled down just in time to see Rifredi become smaller and smaller as we pulled away from the platform.

Then the nightmare began. Rolli Polli Polly, an eight year old hyper active child, bumped through the corridor every two minutes to go between the cabin to our left to the cabin to our right. We had situated ourselves in the worse possible location - but as it turned out the seats we had picked were front and center to some very entertaining slapstick family comedy.

Polly bumped my knees and squealed her way over to her the cabin were Rolli Polli Papa was staying only to be greeted with a unceremonious slap across the face from Papa-bear. The loud smack resounded throughout the corridor and we sat flabbergasted at the event. But Polly seemed unfazed and just went on about her hyperactive childlike activity.

Two minutes later, Polly bumped her way through to Cabin #1, where Rolli Polli Mamma, Nonnna, and sister were seated. Again she arrived to be greeted by a smack across the face from mamma's large swollen hand and a yelling to sit down.

This continued for the next hour and half - and included Nonna-bear picking up Polly, smacking her twice across the face, Polly smacking nonna back three or four times, little sister Rolli Polli Anna joining in the smacking, and Mamma-bear jumping in too. Smack smack smackity smack smack.

After a good five minutes of familial smackage - in what I can only assume was a natural loving gesture in this family, Papa-bear excused himself from Cabin #2, bumped his way to Cabin #1, walked straight up to Mamma-bear, smacked her with the heel of his palm on Mamma's face, yanked her forward by the bangs, and smacked her twice across the face.

Again the smacking resumed and suddenly stopped when the train jarred to a halt, bringing Papa's face smacking against the back of Mamma's seat.

"Attenzione. C'é un terramoto - dobbiamo controllare......" the rest was muffled out by the crackle of avhorrible speaker system and 100 groans from the sardine packaged passengers.

Do not be the traveler that encounters travel issues on the part of the trains, who must endure being bumped for six hours while waiting for the train to resume course.

Every time someone needs to use the restroom, you must get up - move your luggage accordingly and sit back down. When the cart being pushed by the snack lady comes through, it's a matter of lifting said luggage of your head doing the hokey pokey and something similar to the limbo and then resettling down in your seat.

Instead! Buy your ticket and request to have a seat reserved just for you! And do not, by any means be shy about asking someone who is sitting in your seat to move. People sit down, and have no problem moving for someone who was smarter than they were.

For the record, we arrived just fine in Milan 9 hours later - earthquakes and all we made it. But it was the most exhausting train ride I have ever taken, I don't recommend this method the day before Christmas or any other holiday.

Until my next train ride, travel on.

07 agosto 2009

North Shore - Tahoe

Tahoe City, California - We are just about to head back down to Sacramento. Our time here in Tahoe has been absolutely fantastic. It was a relaxing four days of outdoor activities and communing with nature - kayaking, BBQing, hiking, biking, and just relaxing.

Today we made sure to get as much in as we could before this afternoon. After yesterday's late movie night we allowed ourselves a little sleep in, with the intent of grabbing breakfast in Tahoe City. We arrived at Rosie's Cafe just in time to miss the morning breakfast rush - I suggest getting there no later than 1015am when people start pouring in on Friday morning. Rosie's Cafe is a fun environment with an interesting history one can read on their laminated menus. Its history includes, owner changes, general stores, fires, bars, and cutting down of historic trees (parts of which can been seen in the rafters of the current cafe). The food is hearty and delicious. Mike enjoyed the steak and eggs, while I enjoyed the 2x2x2 (pancakes, eggs, and bacon).

Afterward we made our way across the street to the local park and vista point. After exploring we headed back to the 'G' to get ready for some bike exploration. We took a trip south on the Lake Blvd. bike path towards and past Sunnyside and almost getting to Tahoe Pines. We made a pit stop to enjoy a pebbled beach and to skip some stones across the glassy water (just remember, aim AWAY from the anchored boats).

People walking on water at Common Beach

Then we headed back north to meet up with Ishti at William Kent for lunch. We arrived and then decided instead to head all the way to Common Beach in Tahoe City located behind the Firehouse to enjoy our meal. It was a fun decision, we were able to enjoy the view of the lake during our ride and the beach was lovely with lots of activity (both human and animal alike). I'll just post the pictures and let you decide.

The water in Tahoe is so clear!


It was a rejuvenating visit and I plan to return. Until my next adventure, travel on.

06 agosto 2009

Lake Tahoe - North Shore

Tahoe City, California - We are now on the North Shore, staying at the Ski Resort Granlibakken, which is absolutely fantastic. It is conveniently located within walking or biking distance of Tahoe City, William Kent Park, and the Truckee River, which is a must considering that traffic going through Tahoe City makes LA traffic look tame. With a lovely heated pool, large (and I mean LARGE) hot tub, various tennis courts, and it's own hill to enjoy during the snowing months - it's the perfect getaway. You can enjoy a room, a town house, a cabin, or even a small lodge. I will definitely be revisiting come snowboarding time.

Yesterday, after arriving at Granlibakken and making a quick supermarket stop, we headed to William Kent Park - a campground just off of 89 and next to Sunnyside. At the private beach just next to the public access, we settled in for some fine BBQing. Pork, steak, corn, potatoes, shrimp, beverages, and plenty of tasty fresh salad made for an exquisite yet affordable meal. The view of the shore as the moon hit the glassy water was the perfect ending to an exciting day.

Today was full of excitement as well. After having an excellent breakfast at Granlibakken, known to the locals as the 'G,' we took a nice stroll around the property as we followed one of many private trails at the resort. It was a nice way to start the morning. For some highlights of what you can do while you are staying at the G, check out the Granlibakken Blog.

Our plans to go rafting were thwarted by the weather and instead we hopped in the car and took a short drive south on 89 and just before getting to Tahoe Pines parked at a opening in the shoulder. We took the trail up to Eagle Rock for some amazing views of the lake. It was breathtaking to be up there. A short, but fairly difficult hike up, but completely worth it.

Afterwards we headed back down for lunch, exploring the various restaurants in Tahoe City. After a delicious Chinese meal and with the weather looking cloudier, we decided to go north this time on 89 towards Squaw Valley. We decided on a whim to visit Squaw Village for some shopping and some coffee, instead I found a gem. The Gallery Keoki.

The Gallery Keoki is a small, but fun gallery that I would recommend to anyone - art lover or not. Inside you will find a plethora of various contemporary art. And not what you would think to find in the Tahoe area. No there is much Native American art or craft, but instead a few original Dali's, amazing work by Mark Campbell, and exciting photography by Keoki Flagg, the owner of the gallery.

We just returned from Chambers Landing, just south of Homewood, and home of the infamous Chambers Punch. Head down to the beach at Chambers Landing to the small bar at the end of the pier for a delicious (yet somewhat pricey) cup of Lake Tahoe goodness. Enjoy responsibly and is usually best enjoyed out in the sun looking at from the pier onto the water.

We're about to head to the hot tub and heated pool before dinner for our movie night in.

While I watch the boys cook food, travel on.

05 agosto 2009

South Lake Tahoe


South Lake Tahoe, Nevada California - When I think about South Lake Tahoe, I think bright lights, expensive casino entertainment, and those annoying electronic gaming sounds. But there's another side to South Lake Tahoe that some people might miss, a side closely related to the easy going North Shore.

Yesterday, my friend and I arrived at the Embassy Suites in South Lake Tahoe, situated right on the stateline next to Harrah's Casino. We enjoyed some cocktails (compliments of the hotel) and after a short bike ride to the shore, enjoyed the views of the Lake.

We decided that it was necessary to enjoy the lake during the day - and forget any cheesy flashing lights, free cocktails at the slots, and overpriced food! How can one even think of casinos and fast city life when there's this to enjoy.


So today, we took our bikes down to the shore, away from Nevada and to Timber Cove Marina at the public beach behind the Best Western. Despite the windy environment we braved the wrath of lake by renting a Kayak from Kayak Tahoe, a small rental place on the boardwalk where life-vests hang to dry just outside the door - a sure sign that many use their services. The place was friendly and helpful and one of the few places that on the South Shore that offers paddle surfing, a new fun water sport. Because of the wind, we could only venture on the kayak, but that was fun enough. If you are experienced with kayaking, Kayak Tahoe is the place to rent from and receive a free car rack in order to take your kayak to your destination of choice - South Shore or even Emerald Bay (a great spot to enjoy the water).

After a quick overview of how to hold the paddle properly, make effective paddle strokes, and keep the kayak from flipping, we were on our way - paddling furiously against the wind (what a work out!). But the wind died down and it was so pleasant to paddle out on the lake, along side the many geese, and enjoy the clear water. It was definitely hard work and after an hour, we were ready for lunch.

Fortunately, right next to Kayak Tahoe is Blue Water Bistro - a lovely restaurant on the boardwalk that offers excellent cuisine at reasonable prices and a lovely view of the lake. With a full bar, cocktail hour, and cuisine featuring regional ingredients its the perfect way to end a day at the lake. They offer seafood, steak, vegetarian, and vegan options. I recommend the Catfish Sandwich for lunch.

Now it's time to pack up the bikes and head on 89 towards North Lake Tahoe and Granlibakken Ski & Raquet Resort.

Until BBQ-time, travel on.

02 agosto 2009

DO #1

Slow down and enjoy life; take a passeggiata.

In the fast paced world we live in today, where beepers (if you're old school), SmartPhones, dumbPhones, and portable mini-computers are constantly buzzing, digitally singing, or 'you've got mail-ing' us to be somewhere, we really need to take the time to slow down and enjoy life.

The Italians really understand this necessary yellow-light moment that we need to take each day. In fact, the Italians, as a country, slow down at the same time every day with a simple evening passeggiata - a time to walk through downtown with that special someone, catch up with your neighbors, and enjoy a delicious coppetta of gelato.

In all fairness, the Italians aren't exactly what we would say living in the same 'fast paced world' as the rest of us. Let's just say technology hasn't quite gripped the Italians with its addictive hands quite yet - and this may be in part because of various cultural habits, such as the passeggiata, but that discussion is for another day and another place.

As a tourist, the days are packed with visiting, bombarded with visits to basilicas, cathedrals, museums, shops, and so many other things that it's difficult to take a step back and say: "Yes, I am only here for a short time, and while I want to see everything, I also don't want to be someone who just looks in and visits - I want to experience."

If you have ever had this thought, you my friend are not a tourist - you are a traveler. Give yourself a pat on the back. Now as a traveler, you are obliged to not just be an audience to culture, but to partake in the grand stage of it.

So when you are in Italy, after your long day of absorbing grand pieces of art, dealing with the ever-changing bus routes, and running around trying to get a better deal on those David boxers, remember to go for a stroll after dinner down the main streets of the downtown area. Grab a gelato, take a seat and just savor the moment - look around and watch as couples walk hand in hand and others sit and chat about the latest gossip. This is a time to see new romances on display and quite possibly the latest shoe fashions. Just remember that this social ritual is a stroll - a very slow leisurely walk that is quite difficult to master due to our fast paced lifestyles.

The thing to remember when visiting Italy is that you should partake in this social ritual during your stay in order to learn and experience a little of what it means to be Italian. Food, passeggiata, gelato; it really doesn't get much better than that.

The passeggiata, a definite DO on any Italian trip.

Buona sera and travel on.